The Imperial SandTrooper (TD)

Above Picture Is TE2 Armor

 

 

On this page you can find info on what is needed to be a Imperial SandTrooper

If you have a set of TE2 or you are using AP Armor etc.

 

 

A Sandtrooper must have the following.

For a Sandtrooper to meet 501st Standards, you must have the following:
- White Sandtrooper (or modified Stormtrooper) armor, made in ABS, HIPS, or Fiberglass.
- Black Gloves. No particular material, but must cover the wrist and not have any visible strapping.
- White, ankle high, laceless, Stormtrooper boots. The boots are usually made from leather or vinyl, with small U-shaped elastic sections on either side of the ankle, and an approx. 1" heel. Typically CABoots or Mark Cheng high-top design, but also jodhpur boots painted white. "Elvis" Boots or Mariachi Boots are not acceptable.
- Black undersuit, either one-piece or two piece. Non-textured material. Commonly used items include "UnderArmor" or "Starter" warm-up suits, or dance unitards.
- Dirt, accomplished by a number of painting techniques. Most common & accurate being a multi-layer treatment of either tempera, or matte acrylic paint, followed by one or more layers of fuller's earth. Other methods include, but are not limited to; Spray paint & sanding (usually multi-layered), application of sand or actual dirt in place of "Fuller's earth" and other types of dust, charcoal, etc.
- Pauldron (Black, Orange, or White) made from vinyl or leather. Gray is not acceptable, as it is not canon.
- Ammo pouches. Two or three in total, made of leather, canvas or vinyl. Worn either at the hips or left shoulder, opposite of the pauldron.
- Flat rectangular detail, with smaller horizontally oriented rectangle centered on width, and towards the top of the larger rectangle, on abdominal plate. (On stormtroopers this is the "buttons & ridges" part).
- Diamond Knee plate. Six sided (hexagon) mounted onto a five-sided "diamond" shape, with a point on the bottom. This plate is located on the wearer's left knee, attached to the shin part of the armor.
- Flat green helmet lenses, made from lighting gel material, green welder's mask face shield, acetate, or similar product.
- Weapons. MG-34 (DLT19), Lewis Gun (T21), MG15 (unnamed in SW galaxy), or Sterling SMG (ANH Style E-11). These weapons may be scratch-built, resin cast, hyperfirm rubber cast, vaccum-formed, or real demilitarized guns. Hasbro E-11's are acceptable with or without modification.
- No "drop boxes" (small rectangular parts attached to stormtrooper's belts, above the thigh).
- No black lines in grey teardrops, traps, or vents of helmet.
- No rear belt O2 canister.
- No E-11 Holsters.

This may Change so check the 501st Website.

 

 

 

 

 

* Some Paint & Primer Used on TE2 Helmet and Armor *

Rustoleum: Painter Touch: Sandable Primer (White) sku #1981830
Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel (Gloss White) sku #7592

Or

Krylon Fusion (For Plastic) Gloss White sku #2320

You can find all three at HD or Wal-Mart

 

 

 

 

SandTrooper Armor Weathering

Realistic weathering can be achevied using Woodland Scenics' Earth Colors Liquid Pigments. We recommend purchasing 4 oz. bottles of Raw Umber (mfg. part # C1221), Yellow Ocher (mfg. part # C1223), and Burnt Umber (mfg. part # C1222).

It is recommend you buy pigments directly from http://www.woodlandscenics.com

The pigment goes on as a liquid and dries, within minutes, to a dust that sticks to plastic. However, it can be removed without hassle and it won't damage ABS! Even after prolonged exposure the pigment can be wiped from the armor with a damp cloth.

 

You will also need Fuller's earth in natural color (FE-0030N) and grey (FE-0030G). A 3lb container of each color will weather several suits of armor. A little fuller's earth will go a very long way. We recommned you buy fuller's earth from the http://www.cineshoppe.com/fullers1.htm

STEP ONE:
Choose a piece of armor to be weathered. Make sure it is clean.

STEP TWO:
The first layer we apply is Raw Umber as it is the darkest color we will use and we want it to be toned down by the layers that go over it. Dab pigment over the surface of the armor using the tip of the sponge.

STEP THREE:
Pat the pigment with a piece of crumpled paper towel to spread the color out, blend it together and give it a random appreance.

STEP FOUR:
AThis step may seem odd, but it is VERY important! Allow the pignment to dry and then take a second crumpled paper towl and gently wipe of most of the weathering. The pigment will naturally stick better in some areas than others. make sure very little is left. We have a lot of layers to go, and this is the darkest color so we do not want very much of it. As you can see, the pigment REALLY brings out any scratches in the armor.

STEP FIVE:
The second layer used is Burnt Umber which is more red in color and lighter. While we covered the entire breast plate with the first coat, we apply the Burnt Umber a bit more

STEP SIX:
Again, allow the pigment to dry and then take a crumpled paper towl and gently wipe of most of the weathering. We leave a bit more of the Burnt Umber than we did the Raw Umber. You can actually begin to see the weathering effect now.

STEP SEVEN:
As the chest is a heavily weathered areas and the particular trooper we are replicating had a dark streak of grime on his right breast, we made a second layer of Burnt Umber.

STEP EIGHT:
Again, the Burnt Umber is removed with a crumpled paper towl but even less is removed than previously. We are beginning to see the weathering patterns that will define this piece of armor.

STEP NINE:
We now add a layer of Yellow Ocher to tone done the umbers. The Yellow Ocher is applied in a very spotty pattern, only covering about 50% of the breast plate.

STEP TEN:
Once again a good deal of the Yellow Ocher is removed with a crumpled paper towel.

STEP ELEVEN:
To tone down the pigments and give the armor a dusty look instead of a muddy appearance, a light layer of natural colored Fuller's earth is applied with hair spray and a sponge brush. After that a bit of grey Fuller's earth is applied to the right breast area to appropriately darken it. Finally a soft bristled paint brush is used to take both Fuller's earth and the pigments off od the high spots of the armor. As the armor is worn it will continue to maturally "weather" and more clean spots will appear in the areas that get the most wear.

This is a very tedious process. It is recommend you have a friend help you. If done correctly, the weathering of an entire suit will take approximately 1 full day from start to finish.

 

 

* SANDTROOPER FIELD BACKPACK *

Looking for a Completed Sandtrooper Backpack go to: http://www.multimediamayhem.net/contactus.htm

Fill out the Form and Colin will reply to you soon.

He has done about 30 packs over the past 5 years.

Below some of his work. Some Call it a Space Pack.

 

 

 

Colin Does Very Nice Work. "Cool Dude !"

 

 

********************************************

 

* A SandTrooper BackPack Kit *

Make your Own

 

The Kits are Made by Charlie

You get everything except the aluminum backpack frame, the mortar launch tube (2" Black PVC pipe 29" long), the pitcher lid (used at the bottom of the mortar launcher as a radar dish), and the Wet Ones wipes bottles (you'll need two of these). The parts are pulled using 3/4" MDF risers, and will need to have the extra plastic trimmed away. Not a problem if you have a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.

Here's a list of the parts in the Kit:

Seed trays (5 rib and 3 rib)
Stinger (cold weather faucet cover, cone, and rubber hose)
Radio with box and knobs (currently out of the slide switches )
Cistern - Mushroom cap, hamburger stackers, nipple, manifold risers, twinkie, oil funnel
Tool box (upper left of the pack)
Exhaust port (housing, 1" PVC tube, and hose clamp)
Mushroom Cap
Shotgun shells (5 pieces of 1/2" PVC tube)
Mortar tube control panel and end caps
I also include (hopefully) all of the screws, nuts, and washers you will need to assemble the kit

 

 

 

 

T

If you want this kit contact Charlie at :

crashmann@tk386.com


 

Below is what is in the Kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are some Fantastic Looking Backpacks made from the kits.

 

If you want this kit contact Charlie at :

crashmann@tk386.com

 

 

 

 

 

German MP40 Magazine Pouch Set.

SandTrooper Ammo Pouch sets (Click Here) Another Site

Or Try

German MP40 Replica Magazine Pouch Set.

Item No. 979040

You Can also find them here at: www.e-gunparts.com

 

 

Black Leather Dye use to Dye the Ammo Pouches.

Found at http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com

Use the Fiebing's Dye 4 oz USMC Black
# 2100-01

 

Pauldrons and Ranks.

This info can out way after the movie was made and is up for debate.

The 3 Colors and the only Real ones used.

1) Black - Private

2) White - Sergeant

3) Orange - Captain.

 

 


StormTrooper / SandTrooper Helmet Bag.

It is made from water-repellant nylon with a protective fleece lining, two-way zipper & front pocket.  Large size fits all helmet including dirt bike and full-face helmets.  A small price to pay for keeping your helmet clean and scratch free while stored or traveling.

Item #ZX014708T

http://www.jcwhitney.com

 

This Holds my AP / TE2 Helmet with lots of Room.

 

* SandTrooper / StormTrooper Comparison Page *

 

 

HOME