How To / Supplies Needed
How To / Supplies Needed
"Stormtrooper Tutorials Sites"
he Best Armor Mods found here at Dagobah Swamp. This is the place I use for the Helmet mods & most of his suit Mods
(I used this site for some Armor Mods)
(Link Is Down Right Now)
Jedi Academy is another source For Mods to do on your armor. (Good Site For Armor Mods)
(Link Is Down Right Now)
Great Info on mods to do to your armor and how to on the ABS Glue -V- Plastic Welder @ Walmart (Please Read it, Best info on the Subject)
MikesPen - One of the Top sites how-to on Modifying your Armor. I used some of his mod's too.
(Another Good Site For Armor Mod's)
(Link Is Down Right Now)
| Model: 273-240 | Catalog #: 273-240 |
Realistic weathering can be achevied using Woodland Scenics' Earth Colors Liquid Pigments. We recommend purchasing 4 oz. bottles of Raw Umber (mfg. part # C1221), Yellow Ocher (mfg. part # C1223), and Burnt Umber (mfg. part # C1222).
It is recommend you buy pigments directly from http://www.woodlandscenics.com
The pigment goes on as a liquid and dries, within minutes, to a dust that sticks to plastic. However, it can be removed without hassle and it won't damage ABS! Even after prolonged exposure the pigment can be wiped from the armor with a damp cloth.
You will also need Fuller's earth in natural color (FE-0030N) and grey (FE-0030G). A 3lb container of each color will weather several suits of armor. A little fuller's earth will go a very long way. We recommned you buy fuller's earth from the http://www.cineshoppe.com/fullers1.htm
STEP ONE:
Choose a piece of armor to be weathered. Make sure it is clean.
STEP TWO:
The first layer we apply is Raw Umber as it is the darkest color we will use and we want it to be toned down by the layers that go over it. Dab pigment over the surface of the armor using the tip of the sponge.
STEP THREE:
Pat the pigment with a piece of crumpled paper towel to spread the color out, blend it together and give it a random appreance.
STEP FOUR:
AThis step may seem odd, but it is VERY important! Allow the pignment to dry and then take a second crumpled paper towl and gently wipe of most of the weathering. The pigment will naturally stick better in some areas than others. make sure very little is left. We have a lot of layers to go, and this is the darkest color so we do not want very much of it. As you can see, the pigment REALLY brings out any scratches in the armor.
STEP FIVE:
The second layer used is Burnt Umber which is more red in color and lighter. While we covered the entire breast plate with the first coat, we apply the Burnt Umber a bit more
STEP SIX:
Again, allow the pigment to dry and then take a crumpled paper towl and gently wipe of most of the weathering. We leave a bit more of the Burnt Umber than we did the Raw Umber. You can actually begin to see the weathering effect now.
STEP SEVEN:
As the chest is a heavily weathered areas and the particular trooper we are replicating had a dark streak of grime on his right breast, we made a second layer of Burnt Umber.
STEP EIGHT:
Again, the Burnt Umber is removed with a crumpled paper towl but even less is removed than previously. We are beginning to see the weathering patterns that will define this piece of armor.
STEP NINE:
We now add a layer of Yellow Ocher to tone done the umbers. The Yellow Ocher is applied in a very spotty pattern, only covering about 50% of the breast plate.
STEP TEN:
Once again a good deal of the Yellow Ocher is removed with a crumpled paper towel.
STEP ELEVEN:
To tone down the pigments and give the armor a dusty look instead of a muddy appearance, a light layer of natural colored Fuller's earth is applied with hair spray and a sponge brush. After that a bit of grey Fuller's earth is applied to the right breast area to appropriately darken it. Finally a soft bristled paint brush is used to take both Fuller's earth and the pigments off od the high spots of the armor. As the armor is worn it will continue to maturally "weather" and more clean spots will appear in the areas that get the most wear.
This is a very tedious process. It is recommend you have a friend help you. If done correctly, the weathering of an entire suit will take approximately 1 full day from start to finish.
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StormTrooper / Sandtrooper Canvas Utility Belt
Belts are made from thick natural canvas that is very durable and lightweight and ideal for trooping and they are available in plain or white canvas. Also avaliable in black for stealth troopers. He usually make these about 51 inches long to suit upto a 36 waist which includes about 8 inches of overlap roughly the width of your thermal detonator where they close at the back, but can make them any length to suit your needs. They are just over 3 inches wide making the canvas belt slightly thinner than the armour belt which is how the movie version was.
You just need to attatch your armour belt and holster by your prefered method and you are ready for duty. You will receive a plain belt as seen in the pictures below.
Ok a few have asked how to attatched the bits and bobs to the belt so here is how i did it. I am sure everyone will have their own way of doing things this is just how it was best for me.
I used 15mm camping snaps to hold on the holster, drop boxes and ammo belt and money clips for the thermal detonator as it is easy to remove everything for storage.
You can buy these in nickle or brass most wont be seen but i used nickle for the holster as seen on luke's belt after the trash compactor scene.
Use a normal drill to go through the section with the plastic insert, if you use a slow speed and are careful so you dont pull the canvas it will make a nice clean hole. The 15mm snaps are just long enough to go through.
For the drop boxes i used white nylon straps glued to the inside and put two snaps per box. You can then have the belt the right way up with holster to the left for ANH or to the right for ESB. The ammo belt covers the snaps.
For the ammo belt i used the same technique as fitting snaps to the rest of the armour. Cut out three small squares of abs, drill a hole through and fit the snaps. Then i glued one to each end and one in the middle of the ammo belt. I put the ammo belt in the centre of the belt.
This is what the belt looks like on the inside, a bit messy but no one will see it anyway
Once you are finished it should look something like this....
You can email Mark at : firebladejedi@aol.com
These are some Fantastic Belts and The Most Movie Accurate ones I have found yet.
